There's been many things that have stopped me getting out and about since we moved to Spain, but if I'm being honest with myself I think one of the biggest factors is that I now live in the countryside, up a mountain. As such, the urgency to escape to the country had been quashed somewhat, being as I am already technically there. But having finally got a night's wild-camping in recently, and with a renewed desire to go off exploring, I decided to do something that I'd wanted to do for a few years and never got round to; the Castril gorge walk, or El Sendero de la Cerrada del Rio Castril to give it its proper name.
Castril is situated in the north of Granada province, close to the border with Jaen, and south of the Sierra de Castril Natural Park, with the hamlet itself being recognised as a place of historic interest. There is plenty to see and do around Castril, and its several campsites offer a great base to do this (more on that later). There is a tourist centre which seemed like a sensible place to start, but in true Spanish fashion it was closed when we got there. The map in the window told us that there were several hiking trails (of varying lengths) around and along the river, though it wasn't particularly clear where they started or where we were in relation to anything, but a quick phone call to a friend who'd done the gorge walk several times put us on the right track and not five minutes later we were parked up at the right place and ready to go.
We decided to eat our packed lunch first as it was gone 1pm by this time, and the start of the walk offered a large shaded area under the trees with plenty of bench seats in which to do so. The walk follows the river through a gorge, and starts off with a wooden walkway slung from the rock face. Eventually this walkway finishes and you're back on terra firma, descending to ground level. The water was crystal clear and very inviting on a hot July day. The path then climbs again to take you to a suspended steel bridge - not much fun for vertigo sufferers, as my wife demonstrated - taking you across the river to a tunnel cut through the rock. Once out of the tunnel you are met by a waterfall, before descending once more and crossing the river for a second time via another bridge (a solid one this time, much to the wife's relief).
Just around the corner is an old mill which now serves as a bar, restaurant and hotel. From this point you have two options - turn back or continue along to do a full loop. We started on the latter, but as we quickly diverged from the river and lost the shade of the trees the sun started to take its toll on my wife, so we decided to double-back after all, stopping for a quick drink at the mill along the way.
I was surprised at just how short the gorge walk actually was and it wasn't long before we were back at the car. My plan had been to have a wander round the town and stop in a few bars, but having seen a sign for a campsite near by the wife decided she wanted to go and view it, and having done so the next thing I knew we were passing the visitors centre once more and heading out of town. After about 5-10 minutes drive we came across another campsite sign, and with the wife at the wheel we were again heading off course to investigate.
This time I'm glad we did; the road appeared to end, to be replaced by a dirt track (it didn't, as it turns out), so the wife parked the car and I got out to see what was what. Upon rounding the next corner I was presented with the most stunning of views; a vast reservoir - evidently what the Castril dam was holding back - and I realised we were now in the Sierra de Castril Natural Park. The water was bluer than the sky (on what was a cloudless sunny day), and with every few meters that I walked, a bit more of it was revealed.
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| El Portillo reservoir in the Sierra de Castril Natural Park |
After wandering around for ten minutes or so taking photos, we got back in the car and continued in search of the campsite. The road descended down into the valley then twisted and turned through beautiful countryside, following the river throughout, until about 7km later we were at the camp. Going by the name of El Cortijillo Castril, and equipped with a lovely bar and restaurant, the campsite is a good size and appears to have great facilities (including, if tenting isn't your thing, bungalows and cabins), and would make an excellent base for exploration of the mountains and lakes of the Natural Park - or even just a holiday doing very little but relaxing in a peaceful environment. And I really can't overstate what a beautiful location this is.
This is the great thing about getting out and about - you never know what you'll stumble upon next, and I actually can't wait to get back there now, pitch up and get exploring.
Castril - More Info (Andalusia Tourist Board)
Sierra de Castril Natural Park (Andalusia Tourist Board)
El Cortijillo Castril Campsite
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